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Apparel Diary

Fabric shrinkage calculator

Dimensional change after washing in each direction, with growth reported as growth - not forced into a shrinkage number.

Results update as you type.

Inputs

Distance between benchmark marks along the warp / wale.

Distance between benchmark marks along the weft / course.

Result

Lengthwise change

-3%

3% shrinkage

Widthwise change

1%

1% growth

Area change

-2.03%

2.03% shrinkage

Negative values are shrinkage and positive values are growth, the sign convention used by ISO 5077 and AATCC TM135. Growth is a real result, not an input error.

How this is calculated

For each direction, change % = (after − before) ÷ before × 100. For the area, use area change % = ((length after × width after) ÷ (length before × width before) − 1) × 100. The result is a percentage. It is not simply the sum of the length and width percentages.

Worked example. Benchmarks of 50 cm measure 48.5 cm lengthwise and 50.5 cm widthwise after washing. Length: (48.5 − 50) ÷ 50 = −3.00% (3% shrinkage). Width: (50.5 − 50) ÷ 50 = +1.00% (1% growth). Area: 48.5 × 50.5 ÷ 2,500 − 1 = −2.03%.

Quick table: cut measurement for a target finished dimension

Required pre-wash cut dimension (cm) using finished ÷ (1 − shrinkage) so that after washing the panel lands on the target finished measurement.

Pre-wash cut dimension (cm) by target finished size and lengthwise shrinkage
Finished size2% shrinkage3% shrinkage5% shrinkage7% shrinkage10% shrinkage
40 cm40.82 cm41.24 cm42.11 cm43.01 cm44.44 cm
50 cm51.02 cm51.55 cm52.63 cm53.76 cm55.56 cm
65 cm66.33 cm67.01 cm68.42 cm69.89 cm72.22 cm
75 cm76.53 cm77.32 cm78.95 cm80.65 cm83.33 cm
100 cm102.04 cm103.09 cm105.26 cm107.53 cm111.11 cm

Questions

How do I allow for 3% shrinkage in a pattern?
If the finished dimension must be 100 cm after 3% shrinkage, divide 100 by 0.97. The cut dimension is about 103.09 cm. Adding 3% gives 103 cm, which shrinks to 99.91 cm. Apply the measured shrinkage for each direction separately, and do not add it again if the pattern already includes that allowance.
Can I average length and width shrinkage?
Keep them separate for pattern and fit checks. A fabric can shrink in length and grow in width, so an average can hide both changes. Area change describes the total surface area. It does not tell you whether a sleeve, body length or garment width will meet its finished measurement.
Why are my results negative?
Negative dimensional change is shrinkage; positive is growth. That is the sign convention of ISO 5077 and AATCC TM135, so the numbers can be compared directly with a lab report.
Is growth a bad measurement?
Not necessarily. Knits often grow in width while shrinking in length, and some finishes relax outward. It is reported as a real result.
What benchmark distance should I mark?
Test methods typically mark 350 mm or 500 mm (or 18 in) benchmarks on a larger specimen. Longer benchmarks reduce the relative error of your measurement.
How do you calculate pattern allowance for fabric shrinkage?
Divide the target finished measurement by (1 − shrinkage fraction) rather than simply adding the percentage. For a 70 cm finished length with 5% shrinkage, cut 70 ÷ 0.95 = 73.68 cm so that 5% shrinkage of 73.68 cm brings the garment back to 70.00 cm.
Why should you average three benchmark pairs on each specimen?
Fabric relaxation varies across the width and along the selvedge. Marking three parallel pairs in warp (or wale) and three in weft (or course) as required by ISO 3759 prevents a single distorted edge reading from skewing the pattern allowance.
Can two fabric lots with the same average shrinkage share one wash pattern?
Only if their range and behaviour during garment washing match. If one lot shrinks 2% and another 6%, averaging them to 4% leaves half the bulk order 2% oversized and half 2% undersized; shade-and-shrinkage grouping is needed instead.

Read the full guide

Sources & verification

Specimen marking and the dimensional-change formula follow ISO 3759 and ISO 5077; AATCC Test Method 135 uses the same definition for home laundering. The worked example is recomputed in the automated tests.